Frank
Cusine: Italian
Price Range: $30 to $100 per head
East Village
88 Second Avenue
(between 5th and 6th Streets)
New York, NY 10003
(212) 420-0202
Since my recent move to New York, I have become obsessed with Top Chef. We have cooking shows at home, some classics include
‘Can’t Cook, Won’t Cook’, 'Ready, Steady, Cook!' and the briefly famous (before one died) ‘Two Fat
Ladies Ride Again’. Somehow they don’t quite live up to Tom Colicchio, dressed
in Italian finest regalia, giving a verbal beat-down to some poor, quivering,
sweating mess who tries to argue that their vegetables were blanched properly. I
feel that, given the time and proper training, Colicchio could become the most
powerful Jedi of all time. Imagine what the elimination process would be like
then…!?
That is a digression from my point. Since my fascination
with this show, I have become even more of an asinine and pedantic food critic
than before. This has resulted in two things happening. I have alienated my
original group of friends who used to dine with me, and have found a new group
who find my puerile behavior amusing. I am pretty sure my new ‘friends’ are not
good for me, but beggars can’t be choosers.
I have also developed a certain mental problem, which is that
when it comes to meal time, I completely forget the name or location of any
restaurants that I have been meaning to try. Therefore I meander the streets
aimlessly, pissing off whoever I’m with, until their impatience drags me into
the nearest restaurant. Fortunately, this time round, my dining ‘date’ was my
good friend MK, who it should be noted, has not only the patience of a saint,
but a vast restaurant database.
This is how we ended up sitting at the bar of Frank on the
corner of 5th and 2nd Avenue, staring in lust and awe
(both of us) at Michael; our red-checked plaid shirt wearing resident
bartender/waiter. I think it was the subtle Italian lilt with which he said the
word ‘gnocchi’, while simultaneously giving both myself and my dinner guest an
intensely smoldering stare is what caused the salivation to start. Frank is
the first in a group of three restaurants (Supper, and Lil' Frankie’s) who
appeared following the phenomenal popular eatery.
It will be impossible to describe the sensation of the
restaurant without describing the physics-defying way in which tables are
crammed into this restaurant. While you may never be more than a foot from any
other patron, and more often than not, you’ll be less than that, the dimly lit
interior and bric-a-brac smothered surfaces are impressive rather than
oppressive. From the moment we sat down, it felt as though we were in the
middle of a big Italian family dinner, holding our own conversation at the end
of the table. Very warm, very comfortable, and very informal.
As is want for any Italian restaurant, the obligatory thick
crusted, rustic bread and olive oil comes as a complimentary bite. I don’t know
how one eats the olives that are served in the dish of oil, or whether they’re
just a superfluous garnish, but the Ciabatta was slightly, and noticeably,
burned.
Returning (as I will frequently) to our Michael. Frank is
a family run restaurant, and it is clear that you have to be family (or as-good-as,
claims Michael) to find the dedication to reel off the dozen or so specials
that, quite frankly, create a second menu unto themselves. This means that if
you are one of those people used to looking and not really listening to
specials, you are likely to miss out on a large portion of what Frank has to
offer.
While many at dinner will ask ‘wine?’, both MK and I are
much more of the ‘wine not?’ persuasion. It is at this juncture that I must
discuss the concept of ‘wines by consumption’. The menu itself cites that
Frank (to the best of their knowledge) is the only restaurant to have such a
policy, which involves being able to drink as much, or as little as one wants
of a bottle of wine, and pay only for what you drink. It is left at your discretion,
and measured in ¼ bottle increments. I’m always cynical of such gimmicks,
because they are never quite as beneficial to the customer as you first may
think. Newton’s fourth law states that if an open bottle of wine sits in front
of you, said bottle of wine will quickly be void of its liquid via a process
commonly known as imbibing. At first MK and I believed that this policy applied
to all the wines on what was an uncommonly extensive list, but it unfortunately
only applies to 4 (2 red, and 2 white) rather comfortably priced choices. In an
inspired touch, the wines by consumption are rotated frequently to pair well
with the seasons and the specials. At Michael’s recommendation, MK and I
settled into a bottle of the 2003 Barbara D’asti, which, as most mid-range
Italian wines are, was light-bodied, with sweet, earthy notes.
MK and I tucked into a shared bowl of mussels, served in a
thick, hearty tomato broth with a touch of fennel tarragon and onions. A
regular problem with ordering mussels is that you regularly have to toss a few
unopened ones. This wasn’t the case here, which is fortunate, for, despite the
large size of the crustaceans, their numbers were limited. A dish that worked
better when sopped up with bread than perhaps as a seafood appetizer.
It’s clear that Frank’s reputation precedes itself, and the
place defines the very essence of ‘neighborhood family restaurant’ – Michael,
with a skill that I find truly enviable, had an anecdote for just about every
customer to walk into the bar behind us.
I guess it’s fitting with the Italian dinner table attitude
pervading the place that all our dishes came out in a seemingly uncoordinated
order. MK’s beet salad came only moments before my halibut, which arrived a
good five minutes ahead of the pasta al limone we ordered. The beet salad was over-bearing.
Large, thick chunks of beetroot sat unceremoniously atop a plate of greens, and
garnished with more lumps of mozzarella, which was decidedly fresh, but
altogether too heavy for a side salad or appetizer. Ordering off the menu is a
pet hate of mine, but one that I keep to myself for the most part, so when MK
ordered a pasta al limone, a very accommodating Michael promised her he would
create something for her (cue further blushing). Presentation is clearly not a
high priority at Frank, with ingredients placed haphazardly on the plate, but that’s fine. I grew up with a mother who was
proud of her ability to cook delicious meals, but admitted that presentation
wasn’t her forte. This didn’t matter when the food tasted as good as it did.
The ingredients at Frank are all clearly fresh, and the portions are not
small, but nothing blew me away. My halibut was refreshing and light, with a
perfectly crispy skin. The porcini mushrooms held such a wonderfully delicious
flavor, retaining a perfect amount of turgidity, which made up for the fact
that the runner beans were too saturated with oil and butter to be a positive compliment
to an otherwise light and healthy dish. Also, it is worth noting that at $24
for the dish, the special outprices any of the entrees on the standard menu by
a good margin.
My justification in forcing people to be critics is that in
today’s fast-paced society, we so often eat for mere sustenance. We have
forgotten what it means to taste and enjoy food. However, the inevitable
downside is that one becomes too judgmental as a result, finding faults and
flaws where they wouldn’t normally. So I will give my opinion on the pasta al
limone as so – it was exactly what MK ordered – a plate of spaghetti, with oil
and lemon. To me, it is an unimaginably boring, filling dish, without so much
as a garnish or any particular flavoring or seasoning. However, as a simple
pasta dish, it was quite well cooked. Perhaps a touch on the raw side, but
then, is that just me being overly-sensitive?
Michael had no end of time for us and our anarchic musings.
His attention was for the most part flawless, and his knowledge of post-meal
grappa digestivos was refreshing, albeit perhaps expected from an Italian
trattoria. What little space on the walls isn’t taken up with sepia-toned
photographs, tarnished smoky mirrors, or a plethora of red wines is reserved
for the offer-of-the-day board, which, I was told by one regular patron, is
part of the secret allure of the restaurant. The spaghetti meatballs is a warp
straight back to the old-country, and should never be passed up.
My biggest concern came two hours after sitting down, when
the bill arrived. For two entrees, two appetizers, and a bottle of wine, none
of which were spectacular, but all of which were tasty and satisfying, $180
including tip seemed a phenomenal price to pay. For the same price, we could
have eaten at just about any restaurant in the city and had a more palate-stimulating meal. It is difficult to decide how I feel about the whole event.
If you order cleverly and conservatively, it’s a great place to stop in for a
bite to eat, and you can leave feeling good about having eaten a light meal in
the winter months. Is Frank a very warm, cosy, intimate atmosphere, perhaps
perfect for a date? Yes. Is it worth the price? Perhaps not, especially as I
will spend the evening in fear, worrying that when it’s time to leave, I’m
walking out alone while my date stays to talk food with Michael.